Schooling

I created this page because my dream is to open a school so I can teach others the wonderful art of animal grooming! I’m not able to give a time frame for the school but started this page for those interested in learning, you can start the first 2 steps at any age. Be patient, have FUN & practice, practice, practice!!!
LIABILITY NOTICE- Grooming without an instructor is not the best way to learn but I know how hard it can be to get started. This information is given for you to perform on your own pets at YOUR OWN RISK. If you are not confident in performing any task DON’T DO IT, SAFTEY ALWAYS COMES FIRST!!! I, Michelle A. McWatters owner of Beyond Grooming and the business itself WILL NOT be responsible if you hurt your pet!

#1- The most important step in pet grooming is handling! If you can’t communicate with an animal then how are you supposed to control them? In order to groom you must learn to communicate, your attitude & body language says it all. Animals have the same anatomy as people, they feel & have emotions just like us. They sometimes can try to outwit us too, so you have to learn to read them. Always be understanding of their feelings, be gentle but firm. If you or the animal gets too stressed, it is time to take a break!
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/articles/linksbehavior.htm
http://www.cesarsway.com/channel/dog-behavior
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dog_behavior
http://www.best-cat-tips.com/common_cat_behaviors.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat_behavior

#2- Learn your breeds. It is important to know the groups & breeds if you want to become a professional, there are many different grooming techniques & styles. Each breed is bred for a purpose, their personalities are all different.

http://www.akc.org/breeds/index.cfm

Note- Dogs only want to please you & most cats really don’t care what you want, so it is ALWAYS best to start your journey with well-behaved dogs! Cats usually have little tolerance & paper thin skin, one little nick can turn into a big hole. I highly recommend not to do cats until you have mastered all the equipment & handling techniques but if you do decide to try cat grooming PLEASE be VERY cautious!!

#3- Learn about the proper equipment, this is so much easier with a mentor. I cant stress enough about the quality & care. Take care of your equipment & it will take care of you!
CLIPPERS- Andis or Oster with detachable blade. They run from $100-$200
SCISSORS- Best to go to trade shows so you can feel the different makes.
BLADES- ALWAYS use sharp blades, dull equipment will cause razor burn! If you feel your blade drag or pull it is time for sharpening. The #10 is the safest of all blades. You can use this for everything. For beginners I recommend using guards (snap on combs) on the body, they have guards in all sizes. For a guard to work well the coat can’t have any dead hair or matts, they must be combed thoroughly. Animal blades are different from human & range from a #40 to #5/8. The #40 is a surgical blade, it can be used under combs, pads & for detail. This size burns/cuts easily & should not be used by beginners. Body blades range from 10, 7,
6 ½, 5, 4, 3 ¾, 5/8. http://www.revivalanimal.com/articles/clipper-blade-chart.html
BRUSHES & TOOLS- Experiment to find what works for you. I use 4 types of slickers depending on the coat. The shedding blades are real nice for short coats. Combs & de-matting tools range in many styles.
SHAMPOOS- There is so much available it will take years to try them all! I do like neem for fleas
BLOW-DRYERS- I have used many brands & prefer K-9 or Metro for performance & quality.

#4- Getting started. Steps for baths/hair cuts- Start in small steps. Everyone is slow at first, be fair & don’t keep your pet on the table for more than a few hours, they get tired just like us.

  1. Gather your supplies. Don’t waste money on cheap equipment, it costs more in the long run! There are many different tools you can choose from but I’m just giving the basics here. Table with tie down, harness or leash, shampoo, towel, blow dryer, nail clippers, quik stop or corn starch, ear powder for hair pulling, ear cleaner or alcohol, cotton balls, slicker brush, comb, scissors, clippers, blades & kool lube.
  2. Get your pet off the floor & into your territory. Once off the ground they will be much easier to handle. Be sure they are secure with a lead/harness or someone is there to make sure they don’t jump down. A broken leg or hanging pup is never worth risking! SAFTEY is always 1st!!
  3. Clean Ears. Some breeds such as poodles have hair in their ears. There is controversy on plucking but I like a clean ear so unless requested I always pull the ear hair. Using a small amount of powder for grip I bend the ear & pull all the hair from the bend inward, careful not to get any of the outside hair or lobe hair. I leave the hair in the canal & use hemostats to remove the carrot from the canal. For beginners or those without instruction I don’t recommend placing anything in the canal. Saturate a small cotton ball with ear cleaner or alcohol for those without ear conditions. Gently place cotton ball in the ear & massage allowing fluid to drain into the canal. Whip clean with additional cotton balls. Use a clean cotton ball for each ear. You can use q-tips to clean crevices just be very careful not to jam it down the canal.
  4. Clip Toe Nails. I personally wait till after the bath so the nails are softer but some like to do before in case they quick the nail (this can get a little messy). Most professionals use the large scissor style clippers to handle all sizes. I have found it is best to start with the back feet because front feet are generally more sensitive. Speed is the trick here, the slower you squeeze the nail the more pressure you apply to the quick. There are a couple accurate ways to locate the quick (blood supply). Look from the side or under side, you will see were the nail starts to curve & gets smaller. This is the end of the quick, if the nails are real long it may be just past this curve. Terriers usually have longer quicks because digging is one of the breed characteristics. (One example of why you need to learn the breeds)

Place the bottom of your nail clippers under the curve were you want to cut then snap down quickly. It is ALWAYS best to cut further away if you are unsure. Some may want to start by cutting the tip of the nail, this will give you & your pet confidence. Make sure you don’t quick or squeeze their toe when you cut. If you do quick, apply quick stop or corn starch, using a little pressure hold for a minute or so, apologize & give lots of love! 
P.S. Some people & pets prefer the dremel tool to buff the nail, this is a slower process by removing a little off at a time. Just be sure not to wrap their hair!

  1. Prepping- If you plan to cut the dog down short there is no need to brush. Just start cutting. If you want to have ½ inch or more start brushing with the slicker. Pull the hair up with your hand & brush down to the skin, make sure you don’t scratch them. Get all the loose hair out.
  2. Anal Glands- These are stinky little sacs on both sides of the rectum that fill with identity fluid. It is not good to start pushing on them unless needed. When they are expressed this tells the body to make more fluid, so you can start a problem if the dog can regulate it when they have a bowel movement. If the dog is scooting &/or licking back there it maybe indication they need expressing. To express put your pet in the tub, be sure the hind end is facing away from you, locate the bulges on each side of the rectum (if you are inexperience & there isn’t a bulge don’t mess with them, let the vet handle it) Press together & outward. Prepare to wash off quickly because that is some stinky stuff!
  3. Bathing- Wash the face & butt first, this prevents any fleas from hiding & can be the ickiest areas. Make sure you wet down to the skin, lather & massage, talk good things to them. This is bonding process too.
  4. Wring out, towel off & blow-dry- If you see any tangles pull them with the brush or comb. For fuzzy or long hair comb thoroughly.
  5. Finish cut- With your clippers start at the base of the head, flow with the hair growth & body structure. Down the neck, back, ribs, legs, lift for the belly. Unless you are using a 10 blade never cut the arm pits or groin area (below the belly button/rib cage) with clippers. ALWAYS be extra cautious were the leg meets the body (pit areas), around the head & butt. I use scissors in these areas but some feel more comfortable with a 10 blade. Check your blade frequently to make sure it doesn’t get hot, use kool lube to cool. For short cuts a slicker brush will help pull up stubborn hairs that don’t cut. For fluffy coats comb & shake as you go. Clip stray hairs with scissors. Make sure you only use the tips of your scissors, never cut with the middle or back of the scissor blade. Your scissors should open & close with your thumb only, your forefingers are just there to hold them up. Safety 1st, never cut with pressure & know what you are cutting!
  6. Always give lots of love & praise when done!

#5- Getting into business- NEVER run out & open a professional business without being mentored! Many make this mistake & the animals suffer more than anything else. There is so much to learn about the profession, you can start with trade shows, magazines & seminars but it is a must to work with several different groomers & at least 1 shop. Be 100% confident in your abilities before you offer a professional service. As groomers it is our responsibility to know all about pets, we not only groom but inspect & inform owners of any concerns that may need attention. Owners rely on us to take care of their furry family members & it takes a lot of time to learn all the aspects, my instructor said after 1,000 dogs you can call yourself a groomer & this is very true! I worked in the shop for 6 years before I started my first mobile grooming service. The grooming world can be very hard if you dive head first yet very rewarding with the proper foundation….Animals are like children, it is our responsibility to take care of them!!